Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Re-blogging at its Finest

Last weekend, a young mad named Alex paid my program a quick visit. I don't really understand who he was and what he was doing, but as far as I could gather.... He won a CIEE contest in photography and videography. His prize was to travel Europe and Asia for free and visit all of the different CIEE program sites, recording his journey along the way. Another girl went to to Africa, while a third contest winner covered the Americas. All and all, the three visited 35 countries in 2 months. For Alex, Hyderabad was the last stop of his journey. He visited our classes, participated in extracurriculars, met the homestay fam, attended the weekend's planned activity (palak paneer cooking class), etc. It was a jam packed few days, and he took lots of great photos and videos.  He just posted it all, and its really cool to see my program through someone else's lens. Here is the link to the India page on his blog... http://alex.ciee.org/

Most importantly, this is the video that he made about India. While he mentions Mumbai much more than Hyderabad, I think that the video accurately articulates many of my first impressions of this crazy country, so I thought I would share. Enjoy!


Sunday, August 28, 2011

"Running" Hyderabad's First Marathon

Well, I didn't physically run the marathon, but I did in the organizational sense. I helped facilitate Hyderabad's first ever marathon, along with Kyle, Suzanne, Kyla, and a few hundred other volunteers. The event was facilitated by a local group of runners, and was fairly small, but it was organized really well and had some pretty impressive sponsors! I am sure that it will grow in numbers in years to come. 


Even though we weren't doing anything particularly physically exerting, we went out for a big preparatory meal the night before, to a well known local restaurant chain called Chutneys. It was actually the first time that I have gone out for Indian food, because most of the time, we eat out to get a break from local cuisine. But it was absolutely delicious! We totally over ordered and had SO MUCH FOOD (even more came after I took this pic), but the bill was still less that 10 USD per person! And since it was all vegetarian, overeating didn't feel as terrible as it sometimes does. We happily came home and went to bed early to get ready for the big day!
We each got a dosa (huge stuffed pancake thing) plus a basket of naan and
one bread stuffed with mashed potatoes and then like five main dishes,
and all of the different kinds of chutney
We got up at 4:30am, which brought weird flash backs to morning swim practice and an interesting mix of excitement and delirium. We walked about half a mile to Gachibowli statium because we were two minutes late for the shuttle and I assumed we missed it. Guess I forgot about Indian time, because of course it came about 20 minutes after the time that the organizers had insisted it would arrive. We got our free t-shirts (may or may not have been our main motivator of the day) and our official bibs. Then, we got on a bus full of volunteers to get dropped at aid stations every two kilometers across the route.
It was still very dark out when our day began
The sun rose in a foggy gradual way across the surprisingly cool and breezy city. Our aid station was really close to our house, and once we arrived, we started setting up.

Of course, only to look at the route map again and discover we were on the wrong side of the road. But we lifted everything over the barrier and were ready to go in perfect time for the first runner!

Then, we spent 6am to around 10am screaming our lungs off for each runner. We poured Gatorade and water into cups and handed them off as they went by so they wouldn't lose a second. 




We also pealed bananas and oranges, but those were less popular. So, we ate most of the fruit and biscuits (cross between crackers and cookies) intended for the runners to keep our energy up all morning. But the athletes really appreciated us.. they had huge smiles when they heard our screams and a few runners told us that we were the best aid station! 


Such a smooth banana hand-off
After the last runner went by, we headed to the finish line for the celebration. The governor was there and all of the runners got metals and brunch. It was a really cool scene! We attended a few Hyderabad Runner's meetings leading up to this event, so now I think we are securely in with the group now, and we might start working out with them sometimes (which really needs to happen). Working this marathon was kind of random and spontaneous, but I think it was a great way to meet locals and engage in the city. Overall, it was a very successful morning!  


Friday, August 26, 2011

Henna Bootcamp!

CIEE offers non-credit courses (basically extracurricular activities) designed to engage us with Indian culture. This semester, we could choose to learn Katak (a type of classical dance), sitar (crazy string instrument), or tabla (really cool little congo-like drums). A few of us had the idea to create a new non-credit course in "Indian arts and crafts"-- like henna, embroidery, tie and die, ink art, etc.  I have really loved all of the craftsmanship in markets and the art around the house. Art has always somehow been part of my life, and one of my favorite activities outside of school. The CIEE directors really listened to our request, but they were not able to immediately find an instructor with that multiplicity of skills.  So, the idea was modified to simply henna lessons, which is totally fair considering that this is an impromptu course.

The instructor is a local women who does henna professionally, and she is SO talented. She showed us photos of some henna that she has done for weddings, and it left us all speechless! Which is really fine, because it turns out she speaks basically no English. This language barrier means that we must communicate through art... she draws and we copy! When she does try to communicate verbally, it is usually in simple phrases that come off harsher than intended. As we work, we show her our papers to be sure we are on the right track, and if there is a mistake, she flatly says "not fine." Turns out, you need some thick skin to learn henna!! But, we all have a great sense of humor; my friend Jess and I started to joke that we were in henna boot-camp. The analogy is too perfect, and the image had us both cracking up. Obviously, the laughing was messing up our drawings, which brought angry broken English from the henna sergeant, which made us laugh even more!

Between jokes, we are actually learning a lot. It started off really basic-- six kinds of flowers and shading techniques. But, with just two hours of instruction a week, we are already learning all sorts of designs and have graduated from pen and paper to henna and hand! My two homestay-mates were brave enough to be guinea pigs, as I tried my first real Arabic-style, partial-hand henna design. I am really proud of how it turned out, and (despite their expression in this picture) they are happy with their temporary-tats, too! We have a joke going around the house that I am going to drop out of school and make big bucks doing henna in the US... I'll just sit with the street musicians outside of B&N in Bethesda wearing my Indian garb and charge $20 a flower. Its really a pure-profit industry because the henna costs next to nothing here. I will definitely be bringing a lot home with me.. and don't worry, there will be a friends/family discount at my road-side henna shack!


Saturday, August 20, 2011

The Euphoria is Fading

When I first arrived in India, my entire brain capacity was consumed by processing the sensory input overload, and all of my energy was used just getting through daily activities. Every night of orientation, I landed in bed at 10pm with my mind spinning and body aching. Now, after 5+ weeks here, I am still generally more dazed and skittish than when in the US, but I am settled.  It is no longer a great feat to make it through each day.  I have a morning routine, see familiar faces on campus, and proudly told the store keeper who needed contact information for my purchase that I do, in fact, have a local number.  This increased comfort with my surroundings has allowed me the chance think more critically about all that I am experiencing. My classes bring up questions about valuing equality and transforming those values into effective policies, while my life outside the classroom slams me with tangible evidence of the structural inequalities at the foundation this society and differing perspectives in addressing the stratification. Analyzing these observations does not lead me towards any concrete conclusion, but rather, generates new questions.

One situation that I have been trying to wrap my head around for the last two weeks is named Umma. She is the (possibly?) 13 year old girl that just joined this happy household. Auntie told us that her father passed recently, and her family has been struggling to make ends meet. Someone that knows the family and my hosts asked Auntie to take her in-- put a roof over her head, feed her 3 meals a day, and teach her domestic work (and maybe English). Some money might be going to her family, too; I'm not sure. So, there is suddenly a young, energetic addition to the family. The problem is that she was technically hired to dust, but there really isn't much work for her to be doing.  So, she is out of school to spend maybe an hour a day dusting, and kill the rest of her time loitering around us or watching TV. At first, we had a lot of fun communicating with her through online translators and coaxing her into teaching us Telugu and showing us her dance skills. But, all of that stopped being fun very quickly when she woke us up before our alarms, walked in on us changing, and started stealing our snacks.  When Auntie got word of such disturbances, she gave Umma a scolding that left us all feeling uncomfortable and conflicted.

Was the choice really between food and education? Is there no way for her to have both? Is it naive to think that Umma could afford a worthwhile education? Is learning domestic work realistically more beneficial? What is ten less chewy bars to us when this girl has lost her father and is living in a strange house away from her friends and family? Will we regret setting the precedent that it is okay to take our stuff without asking? Should I be shocked that Umma and the other help don't sit at the table when they eat? Or should I equate it to the more subtle way that janitors and professors don't eat in one big happy cafeteria at Emory? I have done a lot of thinking, and Suzanne, Kyla and I have done a lot of discussing. Last night, we discovered that food had been taken that required going through Suzanne's bag.  For my fellow house-mate, a line had been crossed and Suz decided that something should be said. But we are still working on the how and when and by whom. And, we also decided that want to find Umma some Telugu books or games or art projects to keep her stimulated all day.

Onto a separate musing- I have been continuing my communication with different doctors and non-profits about potentially volunteering and it is becoming an increasingly stressful process. I am supposed to visit one event this afternoon, but coordinating my attendance over the phone has been a frustrating series of miscommunications. Now, I have to travel 1.5 hours across the city alone, to an unclear location. And, it is still not really clear what this event is, what this organization does, why I am meeting with them, and if they have an opportunity for me. Its times like these when I realize how easily accessible information is in the US-- all answers cannot be found on Google in India. I am not giving up yet, but I am thinking a lot about what I am doing here and why. Where do my priorities lay?

When it comes to volunteering, can I say that something is better than nothing and just going to this one event is worthwhile even if I can't volunteer all semester long? Or am I lying to feel better about myself when I am doing nothing? Could inconsistent volunteering actually do harm because I am not going deep enough into any one job to make genuine progress? Depending on the position, could I actually be letting down children with my inconsistencies, rather than improving their lives? Will it be possible to find something consistent and fit it into my schedule at this point? Are the CIEE day-trips to NGOs just a feel-good activity that doesn't actually help the organization? Is it conceited to think that our simple presence is bettering the lives of these children? Or, is raising our awareness valuable in itself, though less direct and tangible?

While learning about Indian society and asking these important questions, I am also doing some self-reflection. I am truly loving my time here and have been thinking about how it will undoubtably shape the rest of my life. I want my future babies to wear ankle bells and bindis. I also want them to somehow be bilingual. I want them to see more of the world as they grow up. I want to see more of the world myself. But, do I really like traveling? My trip to Hampi was great, but I am realizing that traveling can be quick and superficial, with lots of wasted hours in transport, too much over-eating and over-spending. Maybe I just like living in a cool, interesting, new place? But I don't want to settle down abroad, right? Do I want to spend a year after college aboard?

This posting is only half-coherent, making it a perfect glimpse into my mind right now. I would say that the euphoria is fading in that each new observation and experience is no longer cool because it is simply different. I am starting to see India for more than spicy food, exhilarating rickshaws, cute children, and colorful clothes. And, in its own way, having the excitement dulled is enhancing my experience.



Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Weekend Trip to Hampi

Monday was Independence Day, so CIEE took the opportune long weekend to take my program on a trip to Hampi and nearby Badami! It was an exciting and exhausting weekend, with breath-taking landscapes, art-history informational overload, buffets for every meal, long bumpy bus rides, and lots of group bonding.  We took an overnight train on the way there, which was one of the most memorable parts of the journey. A group of us stayed up talking until we were certain that the whole train car hated us. I slept more comfortably than expected and when when I awoke, it was light out and the wilderness of India was zooming by out the window--truly incredible. The itinerary was packed full of site-seeing, shopping, eating out, seeing a traditional puppet show, visiting museums, and even attending a  private performance of Indian classical music. Though it may not have been the program's intention, one of the biggest things that I think many of us are taking away is the chance to see daily life in rural India, a stark contrast to what we have experienced in Hyderabad. Everyone was really intrigued to see this additional aspect of India-- different sects of Hindus worshiping deities at live temples, farmers selling their produce at a village's weekly market, and a local school's Independence Day ceremony. To me, these experiences are invaluable because I never could have found them in the same way from just opening a travel book and looking up Hampi and Badami.  Still, no one can deny that the focal point of this weekend was visiting ancient temples! Temples from different empires, with different architectural influences, made by different sects of Hindus, crafted out of different stones, and sometimes carved out of huge caves up the side of a mountain. We just went to SO MANY different temples that the intricate carvings and infinite rows of pillars are all blurring together in my mind. Luckily, my camera captured every moment! Here are the best pictures of the weekend... Enjoy!  [[Click on each picture to see it larger!]]

We saw SO many animals this weekend. Kittens being my favorite,
monkeys my least favorite (SO SCARY), and goats definitely most common.



Having too much fun
Absolutely beautiful.
The weekend's enthusiastic, knowledgeable, overwhelming tour guide

It wasn't as tastey as expected, but one thing to cross off our India bucket list. 



Gettin' silly

So many rooftop/mountain top views. And we had beautiful
weather all weekend... warm with a nice breeze. 

I keep forgetting to take pictures of food because I am so eager
to eat it. So these are the remnants of  our Rajastani lunch.
We spontaneously pulled over our huge AC bus and crashed a local
weekly market! It caused quite a commotion and was very memorable for us all.


We also crashed this local temple/bath.
Brother/Sister duo. The mark across their head shows that they
are the same sect of Hindus as my host family.





Common scene: Parent hands baby to student for a picture while
the baby gets increasingly uncomfortable
As always, there were beautiful children and I creepily took their pictures.
So many stairs. Good thing we were eating HUGE meals!
Me and Suz, duh.
The temple is all carved out of the cave in a mountain, no outside materials.

Ganesh- My Auntie's favorite deity
1 of 1980802314379823 beautiful temples of the weekend.

Not in Hyderabad anymore...
At least I asked if I could take this one.
Nom nom nom banana plantation.
[Photo stolen from Zoe]
Well aren't we cute.
[Photo stolen from Zoe]


Wednesday, August 10, 2011

I am not like you, I live in India

(Yea, hi, shout out, Madatz 08!)

Many of you may be familiar with the expression "NBD", which stands for "No big deal". It is usually used sarcastically at the end of a statement to say that something is, in fact, a big deal. Here in India, Suzanne and I have created a similar phrase, "Yea, we live here".  Much like NBD, we casually drop this expression to note something that is part of everyday life in India, but would be completely ridiculous on US standards. There are times when I have to remind myself that this is not a malaria-medication-induced vivid dream, but my actual life. Yea, we live here. Here are a few examples of how my day-to-day life is drastically different than it was in the US...
  • I have mastered the skill of slapping a mosquito between my hands and instantly ending its life. It requires determination, dexterity, and lots of practice. But every time i get one.. YWLH.
  • I got chased by a cow for a few seconds on my way home from the bus stop the other day. I saw that a herd had just crossed the street and was kind of spacing out until suddenly there was a straggler cow sprinting to catch up to the group-- with me standing in the way. I don't think I have ever experienced such genuine fight or flight. YWLH.
  • Indians don't use toilet paper so why would their plumbing system be capable of processing it? Not only do I carry my own TP, but I throw it away in a trash can. Logical and very unfortunate. YWLH.
  • Every single day, I eat-- one bowl of whole milk with some oats, two mugs full of whole milk coffee or chai, one plateful of white rice with lunch and then another plateful with dinner, and everything cooked in clarified butter. Yet somehow, I am losing weight. YWLH.
  • Sometimes, its just not worth the bus driver's time to come to a complete halt at every single bus stop. And why would he when he can just slow to a reasonable enough speed for passengers to hop off while others grab hold and hoist themselves on? I know you don't want to hear this, Mom, but I jump off/on of moving buses. YWLH.
  • I am quickly adopting the ambiguous "head bobble" that can mean yes, no, maybe, or sometimes just "Im listening". It is very contagious, so I will be coming home with the mannerisms of a little indian bobble-head. YWLH.
  • A large group of CIEE students and myself were eating lunch one day in this delicious cafe in a posh part of town. Then, an Indian woman came up to us and said that we looked like a cool group of girls (true) and she would love for us to star in her next Telugu pop music video. That may or may not be happening. YWLH.
  • Shockingly, I haven't been wearing nail polish at all since I left the US, but that doesn't mean they aren't colored!  The nails on my right hand are slowly being tinted yellow from mashing up curry and rice with my fingers. YWLH.
  • Twice a day, we have to cross Mumbai Road, the main street in Hyderabad that connects my homestay to campus. There's no such thing as "lanes" in India, but I would say it is the width of a four lane road in each direction. If you know anything about traffic here, you will understand why every successful street crossing ends in a proud announcement... YWLH!
I could sit here all day and think of funny happenings, but these give you enough of an idea. Maybe this posting with have a sequel, because these outrageous occurrences don't seem to have an end...

    Monday, August 8, 2011

    NGOs Galore!

    CIEE (being the amazing organization that it is) planned a few day-trips for our group to visit some amazing local NGOs throughout the semester. So far, we have been to two.
    In line to get medicine and snacks.

    Last weekend, we went to Desire Society, a non-profit that works to help children with HIV.  Many of these kids are orphans or being raised by struggling, sick, impoverished single parents. Desire Society provides them with all of the necessary medicine, a proper diet, and a healthy, safe, sanitary atmosphere. For those who need it, Desire Society helps kids catch up to their appropriate grade level.  They facilitate all of the children's enrollment in schools, paying special attention to ensure that their condition is kept confidential to prevent stigma and discrimination. After school, the children come back to Desire Society, where they do homework, play, visit the nurses on staff, and even learn choreographed Indian dances for some added fun and excitement. They have bunk beds for some of the children to stay full time.
    The munchkin in the stripes quickly
     became my favorite.


    We had an amazing visit with the organization. At first, the children all went around and introduced themselves, and then we did the same. The Desire Society staff told us a little about their organization and gave us a tour of the facility. They are doing amazing work with very limited means.. one room serves as the class room, dining room, play room, dance studio, etc.  But they are in the process of moving to a more spacious location, and some of us might go back to help them with that transition. After introductions, we had free time to just interact and play with the kids. They taught us some India hand-clapping playground games and had fun with our cameras. Then, we all sat down, and they showed us some of the dances they have been learning! They even taught us some dance moves, which was adorable on their part and entirely embarrassing on ours.. you're not getting a video of that, haha.

    I was in a very strange mood all day-- I was overwhelmed by the true gifts that this organization provides these children and how good it felt to see them happy, healthy, and having fun. But, I kept being hit by a wave of sadness each time I remembered that every kid smiling back at me was sick with this preventable but incurable disease. It was definitely a meaningful and memorable day for all, and I have a feeling we will be back at least once more this semester.


    This past Saturday, we went to another NGO, Andhra Pradesh's branch of the MV Foundation, an international organization that works to abolish child labor and defend the right to education. They raise awareness and address policy on a large scale, but also help kids on the ground. We watched this really depressing and enraging movie about young girls working in the cotton seed industry in India, and it totally highlighted the importance of this organization's work. MVF has all sorts of strategies for finding children under the age of fourteen that are not in school and convincing them/their family to choose education. They then catch these kids up to their appropriate grade level, and enroll them in mainstream schools. We learned about the special lesson plans that they have designed throughout the years that are a unique way to efficiently teach older, highly motivated children how to read and write.. truly amazing stuff.  I cannot do either of these organizations justice, so you should absolutely click the links and check out their websites.                                                       

    Again, we got a tour of the facility and saw a powerpoint about MVF and what they do. Then, we got to interact with the kids.. this site had 20-30 girls ages 9-14. We had introductions, and a few of the girls even shared their stories. It was unbelievable to see these energetic, youthful, happy, little girls that have already been agricultural or domestic workers for years. Some of them had just arrived to the center the night before! We all played in the playground, and again, had fun with cameras. Then, we all had lunch. It was incredible to watch these kids eat their rice.. they ate way more than any of us, and with much better coordination and speed.  We definitely looked like awkward foreigners, but they got a kick out of it. Suzanne and I got to use some of the Telugu vocab that we have been learning around the house, and the girls' jaws fell to the floor when we said "I ate well, thank you" at the end of the meal.

    Naturally, visiting these organizations has gotten me thinking about how I can do my part while here in India. Im not really sure what that means.. I just feel as though I have so much compared to so many around me, there has to be a way that I can use my privilege to better their lives.  Just walking from my house to the bus stop every day, I walk past slums-- homes made out of tarps and bamboo with half naked children sitting in front waving and asking for chocolate. 
    I know that finding a way to volunteer would make my semester much more meaningful. Its amazing how much these one-day trips have equally lifted the spirits of my program's students and the children in need. A more permanent relationship could do so much more! Unfortunately, my days on Mon-Thus are atrociously busy, and my campus is pretty isolated from most of the city. But, I have no classes on Friday, so that may be the perfect chance for me to dedicate a day to something bigger than conversational Hindi and bargaining for a new kurta. 

    Last week, I met with a doctor who works at the VA hospital in Atlanta but is from Hyderabad and has some connections with a hospital here. We had a great conversation comparing American and Indian medical systems and their relations to each given culture.  He was so nice to offer to help me find a way to volunteer in the realm of health education and promotion, my area of interest and expertise. I might shadow some of his colleagues at the hospital here. He also put me in touch with an NGO called Life- Health Reinforcement Group, which defends health as a right by increasing the quality of health services to women, children and the elderly and improving health-seeking behaviors and practices. So, I am feeling very excited and inspired. I have high hopes, but I also know that this is one of those times when "something is better than nothing," so I am just going to keep talking to people and offering a helping hand.. hopefully my time and service will be put to good use in the next few months!

    Thursday, August 4, 2011

    Back To School

           Many of you loved ones back home have been asking for details on classes. I have been postponing this posting, wanting to wait until I had a better grasp on the content of each course, the atmosphere of the classroom, the expectations of the professors and the nature of the assessments.  However, these pieces are coming together very slowly, and in a vague and fractured manner.  So, instead of conveying all of that information here, I will relate what I know so far, and a bit on my navigation of this new educational system.
           I will be taking four classes this Fall, two directly enrolled in the University like any Indian student, and two special Study in India Program courses, designed for foreigners. SIP classes are modeled after American college classes, taught by professors more familiar with the American educational system, and focused on topics appealing to International students-- like Basic Hindi, Indian Philosophy, or Theory and Practice of Yoga.  I will go through my schedule class by class.
    Some students overflowing the classroom into the hallway.. only in India.
    Integrated Studies of Sociology- Equality and Inequality:
           I was very ambivalent about this course at first, but I think it is slowly becoming my favorite class. The teacher is an engaging little man that wears pastel colored linen shirts and reminds me of a turtle. In traditional Indian social hierarchy, the teacher is considered close to G-d, and should be regarded with more respect than even parents. It is standard for the professor to simply stand in the front and lecture, no powerpoint, no discussion. The 80 Indian students that fill the classroom listen intently to his every word, and chime "Present, sir" when he says their name during roll call at the end of the class. At first, the "sir" thing sounded so ridiculous to me, I wasn't sure if it was mocking, but they are absolutely serious.  They even rise from their seats when he enters the classroom, though he is a humble man and often immediately insists we sit.
           The classroom atmosphere is obviously very different than my anthropology classes at Emory.  And, I am the only foreign student in the class, which is really shaping my experience.  I am unsure whether it is conscious, but the professor makes a lot eye-contact with me while he lectures. Often, one of the only questions that he poses to the class is "Are you following, Leeee? Any doubts?" While this really doesn't help my efforts to be assimilate in this new atmosphere and become an inconspicuous classmate, it is clear that he wants me to learn and is determined to provide me with a positive experience in his classroom.
           So far, this class is definitely my easiest. It started off extremely elementary-- he spent an entire class defining equality and inequality and giving examples, but we have since entered more specific units on class, caste, and gender. I feel a little bit stunted by the absence of questions and discussions on a topic that could be so progressive and dynamic. As a result, I have found that much of my learning is not actually about inequality, but about Indian society and culture, as I pick up so much through the examples that he provides when making an oversimplified point-- like mother/father dynamics in an Indian family, the changes in the caste system in recent history, politics surrounding the Indian constitution, and ideals of beauty in present India.
           Possibly more exciting than the cultural experience of being in this classroom is leaving without  homework! The syllabus had a short list of readings, but I noticed in the first week, that he had yet to specify what we should be reading and when. So, I asked him for clarification after class one day and he said-- the content is purely his lectures, and those books are references to be used to clarify confusing points or answer questions while studying. As I said... quickly becoming my favorite class.

    Anthropology of Indian Society:
           This is my other direct enrollment class.  Based on just the title, it seems like it should be right up my alley, but it has actually been a bit of a struggle so far. Again, this class is straight lecture, but this time, for 2 entire hours with a less engaging personality and a thicker Indian accent. In almost every class so far, I have found myself fighting sleep so hard that its difficult to just keep my eyes from falling into double vision.. oops. The topics on the syllabus seem really interesting to me, and I think that this course will give me an invaluable understanding of the country in which I am living.  But, the level of detail so far has been actually excruciating. He will literally talk about the specific number of households that make up each specific caste in a specific type of village in a specific region during a specific time period. It is very unclear to me if we are supposed to be able to recall all of the details included in his lecture, or just take away the main points.  The problem is that he is so deeply imbued in the details that the main point is often unclear.
           Unlike my sociology class, he has provided us with a spiral-bound book full of xeroxed readings. (It seems there are no copy right laws in India.) Unfortunately, the many readings only seem to complicate the picture drawn by my confused class notes.  One consolation is that about half of this class is foreign students and every single one of them is feeling as lost as I am.  I think that we are all trying to bear with things for now, hoping that the content will get more interesting and the course expectations will be clarified when we approach our first assessment. Another huge help is that I am making excited connections between details mentioned in lectures and daily observations, conversations with my home stay family, and content in my other classes. 
    Classroom in the School of Social Sciences
    The History, Philosophy, and Science of Ayurveda:
           This course is an SIP class, meaning the 20 international students sit in a circle and the teacher asks questions as she goes through the material (and we will have two field trips). As many of you know, Ayurveda is traditional Indian medicine, so this class seems really perfect for my interests in culture and health.  So far, I have been intrigued by the perspective that the professor has been taking. As an Ayurveda clinician herself, she teaches the history and philosophy of this perspective as absolute facts. She actually posed the question, "What is life?" and had a specific answer in mind-- life is the combination of the body, the senses, the mind, and the soul.  In some ways, this is really great because she is providing an utmost "emic" perspective, by giving us an internal look at this worldview rather than describing it in terms of comparison to more mainstream systems. (Thats my anthropology geek coming out, I can't control it.) How amazing to achieve an insider's understanding of an integral element of Indian culture, as Ayurveda has such strong ties to history, religion, philosophy, diet, lifestyle, etc. 
           However, I find myself continually wanting to insert the phrase "Ayurveda teaches...." before my professor's every sentence. It is a little frustrating to hear her make concrete statements about health, when I have studied these topics to be much more complicated, contextual, and contested. I was hoping that the class would be a little more about learning how Ayurveda works in order to understand the interrelations between the system and Indian culture.  But it seems that I will be learning more on the ground knowledge, and will have to use my unique perspective to come to comparative conclusions on my own, outside the classroom. I am currently trying to find an opportunity to volunteer somehow in a hospital or clinic, mainstream or ayurvedic. I think such an experience could be really interesting and fulfilling. 

    Conversational Hindi:
           When I first heard Hindi, the language sounded like a random mash-up of letters and every word that I was taught went directly in one ear and out the other. However, since moving into my home stay and beginning official instruction, I am having more fun with this language than I ever would have imagined. 
           Because the focus of this class is conversational, we are not learning the script, so our vocabulary is written in transliterations-- easy. And, we are learning the most useful words, like how to greet someone and ask their name, and how to converse with a rickshaw driver about direction and costs. The class meets four days a week and I have a personal tutoring session two hours a week. Plus, we are constantly practicing what we learned and adding new phrases at home with Auntie, Uncle, and Allok, the PhD student living here. They have great fun listening to our accented-babble and helping with our kindergarden level homework.  Their enthusiasm and positive feedback is very motivating. Not to be super corny, but we've really made learning fun by incorporating Hindi into dinner conversation and quizzing each other on vocab around the house.  I can't say a Hindi phrase with a straight face, because, be it a rickshaw driver or Uncle, the surprised and amused reaction is just too fun!
           The class is moving very quickly, so I know that this will be one of my more time consuming courses when it comes to homework and studying.  But I am hoping that it will also be one of the most rewarding!

    There aren't many designated study spaces on campus, so this is where I sat and read before class yesterday.